There’s something about Galvin’s Delicatessen that feels both new and deeply familiar. Maybe it’s the colorful bottles lining the entryway, or the cans of Dr. Brown’s soda — an old-school soft drink brand that predates that other, more famous one — stacked in the fridge.
Maybe it’s the way the sunlight spills in through the big picture window overlooking William Street or the tray of scrumptious-looking baked goods poised next to the deli counter.
Galvin’s doesn’t feel like a brand-new addition to downtown Fredericksburg. It feels like it’s always been here, just waiting to be discovered.
Galvin’s chef and owner Paul Stoddard prepares to roast a turkey. Photos by Jeff Kearney.
The deli opened in April in a historic building downtown, but its story began years earlier. Owners Emma and Paul Stoddard, both University of Mary Washington graduates, first met while working together at the Sunken Well Tavern, where Paul was an owner.
“We always worked well together,” Emma says. “Once we started dating, we always had business plans and ideas of what we would run together one day.”
Now, 10 years of marriage and two kids later, Emma and Paul are realizing their dream.
Galvin’s Delicatessen is located at 218 William Street. Photos by Jeff Kearney.
From the start, Galvin’s was designed with intention: a neighborhood deli with Jewish roots and New York sensibilities, inspired in part by Emma’s childhood visits to delis in New York City and the home-cooked brisket and latkes made by her grandmother. The name itself is a tribute to Emma’s great-grandfather, Martin Galvin, who ran a bar in Jersey City that was converted into a speakeasy — hidden behind an ice cream shop during Prohibition.
“Once we found this building and realized both these concepts worked so well here, it felt kismet,” Emma says.
Today, the downstairs deli offers a tightly focused menu of sandwiches, soups, and baked goods, many of which trace their roots back to Emma’s home baking business. Before Galvin’s, she had been developing recipes for bagels, babka, and breads from her home kitchen — work that paused during the pandemic but never left her mind. Now, those same recipes anchor the bakery offerings at Galvin’s. The bagels and babka alone require a 24-hour process.
Emma puts it simply: “Each item is a labor of love, time, and patience.”
The Stoddards pride themselves on making things from scratch, including the corned beef and pastrami — brined for over five days before cooking — as well as all of the salads and soups. Even the pickles are homemade.
The soft serve machine humming behind the counter carries a bit of family history, too. It’s a quiet nod to Emma’s great-grandfather and the ice cream shop that once masked his speakeasy. Like everything else at Galvin’s, it feels both a little nostalgic and completely intentional.
The deli case and menu board inside Galvin’s in downtown Fredericksburg. Photos by Jeff Kearney.
Password, please?
Upstairs, the spirit of that speakeasy lives on.
Guests rely on a phone and password system to gain entry and are greeted by a mysterious but beautifully painted door. Pushing past it and heading up the stairs, I expected to find a dark, tucked-away bar like other speakeasies I’ve visited. Instead, I stepped into an expansive, elegant space with windows overlooking William Street, warm lighting, and clusters of tables arranged for quiet conversations over cocktails or larger gatherings sharing appetizers and stories.
The upstairs speakeasy is called River’s End. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
“We normally have jazz music playing, and we keep the menu on the smaller side because we just want to focus on craft cocktails, good wines, and relaxed classy vibes. A place where adults could come and relax with some friends.”
River’s End speakeasy. Photos by Jeff Kearney.
Emma notes that the reservation and password system ensures visitors always have a seat — no standing behind someone’s chair trying to jockey for drinks. They’re also planning to host events, including live music and group activities.
River’s End may be hidden, but it’s easily one of the best places in town to unwind.
A classic don’t-miss deli pick
While I’m generally not much of a beef eater, I couldn’t resist sampling the classic New York deli staple: corned beef on rye with mustard. It was stellar. The whole-grain mustard paired beautifully with the corned beef, and the extended brining process clearly paid off. The meat was tender, deeply flavorful, and piled high.
Upstairs in River’s End, the standout was the tallow fries — full of flavor thanks to the rendered fat from their house-trimmed meats. (Pro tip: Order extra garlic aioli. It’s delicious.) They’re also available on the deli menu.
Next time I visit, though, I’m trying the turkey sandwich with gravy — house-roasted and served on challah. I also can’t wait to finally try their bagels. They were sold out when I visited, but if the other baked goods were any indication, they’re worth coming back early for.
I’ve already made another reservation for River’s End. While we devoured the focaccia (and ordered more), the whipped goat cheese was a bit sweeter than expected.
But the green goddess cauliflower has us intrigued, and it’s next on our list. With a side of tallow fries (and extra aioli), of course.
